Yerba Mate

  The economy is on everybody's lips lately, and Argentineans are expert economisers–with all of their own economic ups and downs, they know that the best things in life are free. A walk in the spring air, watching the trees blossom, a hug from a child, an afternoon nap, the company of a good friend.  Argentineans […]

Soda en Sifon–Seltzer Water in a Siphon Bottle

  It's been a summer of record-breaking high temperatures in Mendoza this year; seemingly interminable hot day after hot day.  During a heat wave, the line never disappears at Ferruccio Soppelsa, Mendoza's oldest helado (ice cream) chain. And day after day, I've returned to the shop, in a vain attempt to escape the heat.  I pay […]

Submarino–an Argentinean Hot Chocolate

  It's a gray, rainy day in Mendoza.  Unseasonably cold for March, the overcast sky offers a preview of what's to come in the next months.  Our breath hangs in the air in front of us, like smoke cigarettes of so many passing  Argentinos,  as if hoping that roll of tobacco will warm them. Though it showers sporadically, […]

Cerveza Quilmes-Argentina’s Favorite Beer

A hot summer night.  We’re sitting around my in-laws’ round Formica-topped table.  It’s the kind from the 70s with the Naugahyde seats (in dark green) that make the back of your legs stick to it in hot weather.  We’re all facing the tele, watching the Turner Classic Movies channel, only with all those old classic films […]

Bodega Goyenechea–Goyenechea Winery (near San Rafael, Mendoza)

On my first-ever visit to Argentina,we went to tour a family winery called Goyenechea.  This is the willow-tree lined road leading to the winery. Established by Basque immigrant brothers, Santiago and Narciso, Goyenechea was built in the late 1890s.  Their land holdings (1,200 hectares, about 2,965 acres) were once the largest continuous vineyard in the world.  It […]